{\rtf1\ansi\deff0\deftab720{\fonttbl{\f0\fswiss MS Sans Serif;}{\f1\fdecor\fcharset2 Symbol;}{\f2\froman Times New Roman;}} {\colortbl\red0\green0\blue0;} \deflang1033\pard\plain\f2\fs20 Re: [R-390] R-392 Lubrication/Grease \par By Joe Foley @yahoo.com \par 5:07pm \par \par Mon \par 25 \par Jan \par \par \par \par \par ---Jim Walker wrote: \par \par \par \par No, I did not. Do you have a copy? \par \par \par +++++++++++++++++++++ \par Nope, but what it amounts to is this: \par \par Remove the Kc change knob and LOOSEN the nut behind it. Rotate the \par shaft by hand and let the bushing center itself then snug the nut back \par up. It should be able to move slightly if it has to. \par \par One reason for this is that, if you notice, the Kc change knob is \par centered between the handles, they also protect all of the knobs from \par physical damage. But since the Kc knob is so far away from the \par handles it is an easy target. One more thing to do while you're there \par is to check the "run out" on that shaft to see if, or how badly, its \par bent. Mine shows some bend, the knob doesn't run true, so it can take \par some without being a problem. \par \par The shaft is mounted in three bushings which makes it tough to keep \par all of them in perfect alignment, letting the front one "float" helps \par smooth out the action. \par \par Check the archives for Al Tirevold's treatise on transmission \par lubrication, it has a bunch of details to consider. \par \par Joe \par \par _________________________________________________________ \par DO YOU YAHOO!? \par Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com \par \par }